Started with the brackets today that attach the rib tubes to the spars 🙂
See below, one picture = 1000 words ! These gusset plates are 2.5″ * 5″ aluminium, as is everything else 🙂
One thing you really need to do that will save a lot of time later when mounting the leading and trailing edge 1″ tubes:
I had to adjust the ends of a lot of the 1/2″ rib tubes as they where not in one straight line or too long after the ribs where mounted onto the spars and I was mounting the leading and trailing 1″ tubes.
- Bend all the rib’s. Top and bottom ones. Make them as identical as you can.
- Cope the ends, well I did.
- On a board with dummy spar’s and dummy leading and trailing 1″ tube’s, make sure they fit nicely in between these 1″ leading and trailing tubes, without having to force them in there and without blocks to hold them into place as that will result in them going longer when you pull them of the board. So don’t use blocks as what I did, see photos above.
- If you want to use blocks, and you probably should, only use them at the very ends of the ribs, to hold them in place, for the next step.
- Mount the two brackets.
- Last thing to note is related to the mounting of the ribs on the spars. The back spar snugly sits in between the top and bottom rib tubes. But the front spar sits sort of halfway in between the top and bottom rib tube. If all ribs are identical, then nothing is wrong, but they aren’t. When I mounted the ribs, I used a bit of timber to sit on top of the front spar that determined the height of the rib just before drilling the holes through the bracket for the rivets into the spar. But ideally when you are building the ribs, you mark on the bracket while on the board where the front spar touches the bracket. This is where it needs to be mounted on the real front spar. Reason is that, because not all ribs are identical, so the distance from spar to top rib tube will vary…..
No extra work really but handy to know for when mounting the leading and trailing 1″ tubes.